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Day 4
During the last 3-4 months I’ve been wet and cold rather a lot. A little ironic considering I was remaining north to avoid the southern winter! Today was no exception. The shirt was again stripped off mid-route in favour of the fleece, but happily the weather improved as the day progressed.
Today saw a tough climb early, but it could have been tougher if the option of Helvellyn and Striding Edge was taken. I was disappointed that it wasn’t. It was a pretty enough route though, passing Grisedale Tarn and seeing “The Brother’s Parting”. This was the spot where William Wordsworth last saw his brother before he was drowned at sea. There is also an old barn en route where Wainwright once “illegally” spent the night in 1954…..Coronation Day and the day Everest was conquered. He was a little miffed that Hillary had taken that honour and not himself but alas AW, a fell is not Everest.
The five hours of walking had felt like two and soon we were over the hill and in Glenridding, pear cider in hand (after an hour’s pilates sesh, of course!!)
XXX
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Day 3
Accommodation at Rosthwaite was run by Rachel. Seventy three year old Rachel is a gem and a character. She regularly goes up the mountains to rescue people and gets around with Pip the parrot sitting on her shoulder. She had our gear all dry in about an hour. Angel. Dinner was at the very crowded pub down the street. Where did all these people come from?? The food left a little to be desired but, well, hey ho.
Today was going to be another tough one, but that’s to be expected in this part of the world. It was up and down with a final big UP to Helm Crag. The views over Ullswater, Windermere and Grasmere are worth the effort and you’d be hard pushed to find a prettier lunch stop than the one experienced today.
The other interesting thing about the coast walk is that you keep running into the same fellow walkers day after day. It’s heartening and nice to exchange stories and encourage each other along. We all made it to Grasmere at the not-to-late time of 15:00 with “only” 10 miles covered today. I actually find these “strenuous” days less taxing wit the brain more occupied, as I explained earlier. I was ready to do it again!!
Mum was in good form tonight, first of all by voicing her concern about catching chlamidia (that’s not an algae, Mum!) from the tap water! Next, whilst watching a tv programme on some Amish people and observing them making their own clothes, she wanted to know, “Haven’t they heard of China??”
It was lovely to end the day by drifting off to sleep with the view out the window of the recently conquered brooding fells.
XXX
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Day 2
We had spent the night in the little village of Ennerdale Bridge. As long as there’s a pub, there’s a village. Even if that’s all there is. And that really is all there is at Ennerdale Bridge. You can really consider this the gateway of The Lakes District, one of my favourite places in the whole of Britain, and home of some brilliant fells, crags and pikes just waiting to be climbed! Bring it on! The first part of the walk sees you skirt the whole length of Ennerdale Water and then onto views of Haystacks, one of Wainwright’s favourite fells and where his ashes were scattered. Lunch was at the very remote hostel of Black Sail. It’s bleak and lonely and we made it inside just before the rain started. But then, what’s a walk in Lakeland without some sort of precipitation, huh?! It wasn’t going to give up and so it was with gritted teeth we had to brave the steepest section of the Coast to Coast walk up Loft Beck, horizontal rain as our climbing companion. The spectacular views back to the coast were to elude us today, but the view of Honister with the slate mine’s tea rooms were welcome indeed. The elements had proved that our waterproofs weren’t quite as their name implied, and soaked to the skin and torturously cold, it was off with the shirt, on with the warm, dry fleece and a hot cup of tea teamed with a bar of chocolate dipped in…all melty, warm and gooey. Mmmmmmmm. A welcome goal reached. Oh! The joys of high Summer in England. It’s at times like these that you wonder wether a sun drenched Greek island may have been a better choice of destination. But hey..…where’s the fun in that?!?!?! So onward to Rosthwaite and the weather improved on our home run. After another challenging 14 miles in 8hrs, we felt pretty good about ourselves.
XXX
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Coast To Coast….Day 1
Distance walking is an interesting undertaking. Funnily enough I find the steep and difficult walks a lot easier than the flat walks. I seem to go faster up hills. Maybe I was a mountain goat in a past life. Nah….maybe a snow leopard. Sounds better. There’s also more to think about, like where you’re putting your feet. Flat walking can get monotonous. Gives you way too much time to think. I already think too much. Always analysing and philosophising. And with today, Day One of the walk being 14 miles of basically flat walking, I had life, the universe and everything all figured out five times over. I mean, I think I’ve solved every global issue that has ever existed whilst walking on the flat (or was that on IB chat with Mr Marchant??!?!) Drives me insane.
The first task of the walk is to race down to the beach at St Bees and pick up a pebble. This is to be carried for the duration of the walk and thrown into the North Sea at the end of the walk in Robin Hood’s Bay. The walk doesn’t officially start however, until your pebble and feet have made contact with the Irish Sea. Mission complete and off we went! It’s a little disconcerting initially as the first few miles of your trek east are actually directly north. It’s a nice coastal ramble though. By the end of the day, I was surprised how well the body pulled up. Everything felt good after the 7.5hrs. Except perhaps for my already dodgy right shoulder. I must say though the day pack feels heavier than it should, but with just the essentials of waterproofs, water, maps and food, it was basically impossible to lighten. I felt like our Mongolian packhorses from a few weeks ago. My heart went out to them!! Ok, so perhaps the nail oil, mascara, hand cream, lip gloss and essential oil could have been left out, but it’s nice to make oneself feel a bit more gorgeous over the slightly-to-long lunch break!
XXX
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Welcome To England :-/
Sunday it was time to race back to London to pick Mum up from Terninal 3. It wasn’t as smooth sailing as i thought. Frankfurt airport was a nightmare. More and more I am concerned about where that good old German efficiency has gone! Having made Heathrow, and thinking my troubles were over, I found the Iris scanner out of action. Never a good thing when you’re an “alien”, as they like to call us. Time to roll up the sleeves and get ready for the third degree. And I wasn’t to be disappointed. In fact, I was lucky to make it back into the country, not even thinking that no visa PLUS no airline ticket out of the old dart is never a good combo. Giving a bit of cheek never really goes down well either. Oh well, I got the stamp and stormed off as the girl was still ranting. Right. Back on track. Found Mum and then was kindly picked up by Scott. Thanks Scott!!
No rest for the wicked and next stop was Kensington. There’s no way I could be that close to Wholefoods and not pay a visit. That would be sacrilege! Of course Mum loved the cashew ice-cream and green juice. 😉 Next stop….Cotswolds. The area never ceases to impress and charm one to the core. We were staying at Bourton-On-The-Water and there could hardly be a more delightful place..…and it has a laundrette. A bonus when you’ve a suitcase of dirty clothes. The next few days were spent reacquainting ourselves to this sunny little corner of England. Bourton, Bibury, Cheltenham and the family favourite, Lower Slaughter. The hotel at Lower Slaughter is lovely, but don’t bother eating there. It’s supposed to be a fairly classy restaurant, but they had no salad as the supplier hadn’t made it that day. Really??? Serious?? You’re about two hours from the centre of London and 2 minutes from the local Spar!!! Note to self, restaurant….MUST TRY HARDER!!!
After a few easy-going days, it was time to head north to Kirkby Stephen to drop off the car and then St Bees get ready for the inevitable!! St Bees is on the western coast and it’s here that Arthur Wainwright’s Coast to Coast walk starts. We had a day to “acclimatise”, so to speak. Well, to be fair, it is a touch cooler up north here!
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Ich Liebe Deutschland!
I love Germany. I think that time and frequent visits have made it so. It was never a country where the first time I landed I thought, “Wow! Germany!” I love it in a cozy, old friend kind of way. I know what to expect and I know where to find things now. Though I must say I was shocked by the lack of the taken-for-granted German efficiency with the trains this time round. Thirty minutes late and no air/con. What the…? Anyway, I landed in Frankfurt after a delayed Russian flight (no surprises there), and it was then a 4.5hr train trip up to Berlin, so the chances of me joining in the World Cup Final craziness were becoming slimmer and slimmer until they were non-existent. Oh well.
I’ve never been to Berlin before and it was brilliant. One of those cities you could all too easily live in, as many expats do. The history is not altogether pleasant, but I admire how upfront Berlin is about it. The city doesn’t try to hide away it’s Nazi past, but fully acknowledges that it happened and that’s that. That’s a brave attitude. Respect, Berlin. The days I was there it was mid 30C and I was exhausted from Mongolia, so perhaps I didn’t do the city justice, but I think I gave it a good shot. Alexander Platz, Brandenberg Gate, The Hollacost Memorial, The Topography of Terror Museum (set on the site where the Nazi’s ran the concentration camps), Neues Museum, Alters Museum, The National Gallery and The Olympic Stadium. It was here that a lovely couple showed me around the horse complex which was originally a racetrack. It’s a lovely spot and an agistment centre today (I also met their gorgeous horses!). They also showed me where the British military used to train their horses and where Hitler used to run the whole German sporting effort.
Checkpoint Charlie was also a must see. There’s a great little museum here describing the history of the Berlin Wall. It’s small, cramped and stuffy, but well worth the effort.
Two “guides on the ground” Clement and Marco had recommended the Neues Museum, and I’m glad I took their advice (thanks guys!). The museum houses mainly Egyptian artefacts (including the famous bust of Nefertiti), which is good enough in itself. The standout though is the way they’ve presented the actual building….like a big Egyptian tomb. Wonderful.
From Berlin, it was time to head down to the best show on earth…..AACHEN! The CHIO really deserves its billing and I’m thinking it may well have to become an annual event. The atmosphere, the competition, the shopping and mainly the people that you’ll find there. It was great to catch up with old friends, and new ones alike. Carolus Thermen is nothing to sneeze at either.
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Mongolia!
Mongolia. Where to start. I guess the first obstacle to overcome was surviving flights on Aeroflot, Ezines Airways and Aero Mongolia. Tick, tick and tick, even if Aeroflot did lose my luggage (big thanks to EVERYONE on my trip who helped me out!) and the only meal they serve is fish spam. I love how the passengers on Aeroflot still clap when the plane lands. Says something, me thinks. So lost baggage and then I’m left at the airport by my group before we had even started. Not the best of starts. No use getting upset though. What’s the point. The way forward is to charm some bloke to give you a lift to your hotel. Plus my group was easy to forgive. I couldn’t have asked to travel with a better group of people. Usually there’s one or two to have a moan about, but no such cases in this group. They were all super fab.
Mongolia certainly didn’t disappoint. Many surprises were had and they were all uber positive, starting with night one when we hit the heady lights of Ulaambaatar to watch England v Germany in the World Cup. These guys know how to party! The place went off, and we couldn’t ask for a more brilliant start to our trip, even if there were one or two sore heads the next day. Why wait for the last night to go crazy and let your hair down?? Some of us (ok…just 3) made it to the museum the next morning. Hardcore. That afternoon it was time to fly up to Moron, a sleepy little town in northern Mongolia. From here we travelled up to The Reindeer People of East Taiga on our little Mongolian ponies. Nothing but utter respect for those little guys. Tough as old boots. I loved my little mare to pieces. They have to be tough as the country is unforgiving. With temperatures as low as -70C this Winter, about 10% of the animals died. We experienced temperatures as low as freezing and as high as mid 30C. I’ve never been so cold as the day we got caught in a storm and I only had shirt sleeves on only to then be attacked by man/horse-eating flies the size of small birds on other occasions when the sun was at its hottest. Our group was definitely tough enough to survive in this unforgiving terrain. If someone had told me that 7 people could get through 22 bottles of vodka and 10 bottles of wine in less than two weeks, I would never had believed it. Just goes to show what you can achieve when you put your mind to it.
Seeing I’m still travelling and a little bit lazy, I shall now direct you to Richard Dunwoody’s blog on the Wild Frontier’s website (www.wildfrontiers.co.uk). Richard was “Dad” on the trip, looking after us all and I secretly think he liked having a group of hot chicks by his side for two weeks. Nice one, Richard. Top bloke who’s had (actually…he’s STILL having!) an extraordinary life. You’re a diamond! Also….my photos are on facebook.
XXX
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Hay Harvest
Back to Somerset to The Manor House to hang with Judes and the team for a few days. Are there a kinder, more open and honest group of people in the world? I think not. It’s exciting times for the team with Susie Anthony, shaman and transformer extraordinair hitting new levels of growth for herself and those around her. Susie has a regular spot on David Gibbon’s internet radio network (www.davidgibbons.org and www.theheroseries.com). The series is about the real Hero’s Journey. Please listen to it. It will change your world. Amazing guests await you including Kevin Sorbo, Barry Eisler and John Perkins.
It was beautiful being in Somerset during hay harvest too. These people are so in tune with the seasons. It’s such a natural way to live. It all makes sense. I had the privilege to ride Cassie the little Arab who gave me the freedom I’ve not experienced for sometime. I’m never one to venture too far out of the dressage arena, so to gallop up along the Mendip Hills was a humbling treat.
XXX
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Londinium……again.
Sorry I haven’t blogged for an age. Seemed pointless in London and not possible in Mongolia. So, now I shall backdate…….sort of.
Back in London. It was very weird. Mixed emotions though I must say the initial feeling was one of fear, trepidation and wonder at why I was undertaking such a pointless task. Reliving your past when it had only just become as such. Holding on to that which had already been? Possibly. Kind of silly really. No point looking back or grasping on with finger nails. Perhaps I just momentarily faced myself in the wrong direction. Back instead of forward. How can I have regrets about leaving such a dull, grey, polluted city? Anyway…there I was and I was going to make the most of it. It’s never dull or pointless catching up with best friends, so in that respect, London was an utter success. Stayed with Yoli and her super friends. Thanks guys for putting me up! Robbo’s 40th x2 was brilliant. Robbo….you rock! Back having city drinks made me start wondering whether I’d made the right decision to leave the banker boys, but I think I’ll survive with irregular visits. It’s always hard to say a temporary farewell to friends who have helped you transform as a person. Heard your whining and never complained. Supported you in every twist and turn on the crazy road of life. Robbo……you’re a star. Even if you are a Pom who supports the British Lions. At least you took my Wallaby to the HK Sevens. And Yoli……wise beyond your years, girl. And a siren to boot! We’ll laugh about it all one day. You know it.
It was also great to see Ant. Remember Ant….we may not have each other, but we’ll always have our love!! hahaha. Don’t ever change, son.
Next it was off to Todd’s Rare Species Conservation Centre for his Summer do. Ping the baby Otter is perfect, as is my new adopted child. I’m now the proud parent of an emperor tamarin.
XXX
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Laying Low
I was going to visit Italy this week. One quick check of the bank account though means that I’m now hanging in what it seems is Italy’s polar opposite (obviously not literally, as that would mean I was hanging somewhere in Asia……..or something. No, I’m back in that sunny old place, the old dart. Sigh. I’ve just seen he weather on the BBC. 14C and raining. And here I was remaining north to avoid the southern winter. I really should know better. Sometimes I think once you make a decision to leave a place, you should just leave. However, there are some positives. I have some dos coming up for some good friends, and people are important. Hung out at Scott and Selina’s for a couple of days and threatened to steal their “kids”, Anushka and Boris. I’ve never been a cat person, but these two are turning me. Caught up with Judy to see Robin Hood, if for no other reason as to spend a couple of hours gazing at Russell. The movie’s was pretty good too. I saw the trailer of Wall Street whilst there. Had a twinge of nostaliga for “the old days”. Geez….don’t tell me I’m missing it all already! It’s only been a month. But then I guess I haven’t really worked since mid March if I’m truly honest. Perhaps I’m just lacking purpose right now, but please tell me that little nudge of emotion wasn’t regret or a longing for times past! Onwards and upwards, I say!!
The other thing that’s interesting about changing your life around a bit is the discovery of who your friends are are who aren’t. I mean real friends. And it can often be a bit of a shock who’s on which list. But I guess, it’s another lesson in detachment and accepting what is and where people are in their lives. Surely I’ve worked that out by now, but it still surprises me sometimes.
Came other to North Cornwall yesterday. Yes, I hear you…..surely I could have found somewhere closer to London seeing I’m heading back that way. I found myself at Tintagel. This is a place of legend, magic and faerie people. It’s another powerful part of the world and features very strongly in the story of King Arthur. Tintagel Castle, right on the jagged coastline is where legend says King Arthur was born. A cave in the cliff just below is called Merlin’s Cave, where the old magician lived and educated the young Arthur. From the village you can take a lovely walk along an old wooded track used by pilgrims since about 500AD to St Nectan’s Glen and Waterfall. The place takes its name from an old hermit who lived here, far away from everyone. Irish mythology will tell you that Nectan was a wise water god and guarded the sacred well here. The place is full of legend of ghosts of different kinds including chanting monks and two grey women. The other story associated with the place is Arthurian. It is believed that the legendary old king came here with his knights of the round table to be blessed before their quest. It’s a perfect little spot and there are messages and ribbons tied to the trees and bushes, prayers and offerings to those in high places. And whether it was the light or the spray or the supernatural, there are orbs everywhere here. The site is a designated Site of Special Scientific Interest and is one of the ten most spiritual sites in the country. There is also a little meditation room further up the track near the hermitage, complete with lots of pagan water gods and goddesses.
Further along the trail is Rocky Valley. Here is found the remains of an old mill and also, on the cliff are small, carved finger labyrinths believed to be from the Bronze Age. They’ve weathered well if they’re from that age (1800-1400BC), but who am I to be sceptical! The track then winds along the cliffs by the coast, back to the start.
Next was my least favourite time of the day…..finding accommodation. I almost gave up all hope until an old lady, who wasn’t going to take anyone in that night, felt sorry for me and put me up! Good price too!
XXX
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