Hang Ten, Dude.

I think I had a visit from aliens last night. I go to bed in England and wake up in Australia. Did I get teleported back home during the night? I drove from the town of Newquay to Fisteral Beach and I really could have been in Australia. Sand, surf and sun…and quite an impressive beach it was too. The swell wasn’t so great today so there was a lot of just bobbing up and down on boards but it was a bit too cold for me…being the Atlantic and all. Next time I’ll pop the wetsuit into the suitcase. Next it was up the coast to the little fishing port of Padstow. It’s nothing like the Sydney version. Luckily! Padstow is very cute and quaint and has seen monks and Vikings before today’s tourist raids. The nearby craggy cliffs bring to life the thought of pirates and those of you who went to Brazil with me know that I have a bit of a pirate thing going on. Hey Tom? So many perfect hiding spots for tall ships where cargo could be secretly unloaded and taken inland, perhaps resting on the way at Jamaica Inn!! Ok Rebecca…back to present day reality. There are some great little walks around the village, along the cliffs and beach and then you can later dine at Rick Stein’s restaurant. I’m figuring that’s impressive if you’re a foodie. To be honest, I think Rick Stein has purchased the whole of Padstow. He has restaurants, fish and chip shop, patisserie, cafe, hotels, bistros, seafood school, deli and a gift shop scattered throughout the little town. Nothing like a bit of overkill, huh??!

Next it was across to the Eden Project. This is an amazing charity set up for environmental education. Set in an old disused china clay pit, Tim Smit has literally reproduced a garden of Eden. I’d seen photos of the biomes before but nothing prepares you for the enormity of them. The rainforest biomes covers an area of almost 4 acres. It was nice to be in a hot, humid environment! I can’t believe I only just found this place. If I’d known how hot is was in here, I would have been making weekly weekend tips from London during Winter!!!! I even found chocolate trees and had a Brazilian gardener find the acai palm for me (and even sneeked me some seeds!). The other biome was for mediterranean plants but a lot of it reminded me of Sydney. Lots of nice smelly things in there!
Next it was a late stop at Charlestown. Someone told me that Pirates of the Caribbean was filmed there, but aside from a couple of tall ships and a shipwreck museum, I couldn’t see any evidence. Nice little spot though, all the same.
XXX
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Note To Self: Don’t Judge A Day By The Weather. Must Believe!

Ok…it’s not funny anymore. I’m manifesting the sun from here on in. South West England is supposed to be like “another country”. That’s what they tell me. Someone forgot to tell the weather!

After 1.5 rest days at Serena’s, the journey continues. I spent last night in Glastonbury. It’s like a magnet to me. Love the place. Must be all that energy or something. It certainly does make me all nice and calm. I stocked up on food ready for my travels to Cornwall. Bring on the tropical weather! First stop was the little medieval town of Exeter in Devon. It’s a cute little place with a lovely huge cathedral. You have to pay to go in (hasn’t the church got enough money?????) but you can still sneek a photo of the magnificent ceiling without putting your hand in your pocket. The city wall is still intact in parts as is the old bridge that once crossed the River Exe. In it’s heyday, Exeter was one of four of the most important towns in England and was a big textile centre, especially the woollen cloth industry. It also had weekly markets and a number of big fairs, especially on saints’ days. So I guess you could say it was just one big party town. Probably would have given Ibiza a run for its money.
Next it was off to see some Dartmoor ponies. I found a lot of sheep (just for something different!) but the ponies proved elusive, perhaps because of the misty rain. I had to make do with seeing a rather large one in the doorway of a stable with a rug on. Something told me he wasn’t a wild native. I went for a walk at Postbridge, through the small pine forest out to Bellever Tor and the view really was super. The brooding landscape would be the perfect location for a romantic Bronte or Hardy novel. The granite tors are a real feature of the moors. They are like geological works of art. You really can’t improve on nature.
On the road again with Newquay in sight. On the way a quick stop was made at the Jamaica Inn located on the Bodmin Moor. This old inn was built in 1750 and was a popular hang for smugglers and highwaymen. It was brought to public attention by the author Daphne du Maurier whose novel was made into a Hitchcock film. It’s supposed to be incredibly haunted, so a quick toilet stop and we were off!!
Newquay is….well…um……an interesting place, shall we say. The coastline is stunning, but I must say, I thought I had left all the drunk hen/stag parties back in London. But alas no, they followed me here to England’s answer to Surfers Paradise. Having said that, the group of guys dressed up as old ladies complete with grey wigs and the group dressed as tennis players were really quite funny. Small things perhaps. On that account, the main pedestrian drag is good for people watching. Well….too much fun for one day!! To bed.
Random question of the day: Are Hunza apricots slipstone?
XXX
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Ubi Sunt Vindolanda?

Question of the day is what does the title mean? The hint is that the secret location was Greenhead, which is the perfect starting point from which to see Hadrian’s Wall. “Ecce!! Hadrian’s Vallum!” Ok…so my year 7 Latin isn’t what it used to be. First stop was the Roman Army Museum. They’ve done a really good job of it and there is a great little film about the wall commissioned by Emperor Hadrian in the 120s. He did visit the place once, but only during the construction. The rest of the time he was busy travelling his Empire with his toy boy. He had trimmed the empire back a bit and even here in Britannia he pulled the northern boundaries south a little. The crags in this area have proved the saviour of the wall in these parts today as it was too rough for the locals to come here and steel the stones to build churches etc, so it’s quite well preserved. It was originally timber and stone with milecastles every mile (funnily enough!). Most of it was built and manned by auxiliary solders (you couldn’t have your precious legionaries out here surrounded by barbarians!) However, contrary to being a lonely a desolate place, villages popped up around the forts, a major one being Vindolanda. This is a brilliant archaeological site today and just 7miles east of the museum. I highly recommend a visit. It’s extensive, well laid out and they’re still making finds. A lot of textiles and leather shoes etc have been found here. It’s very unusual to find such things after 2000 years, but the anaerobic soil in these parts has been a blessing. The most famous find to date was been wooden writing tablets now housed in the British Museum.

You can’t tell that I love all this Roman stuff, can you?!?!!? I’ll stop now.
We left around 3pm to drive all the way back to Serena’s in Wiltshire. We’d basically covered the whole of the Island. Breathe.
Random quote of the day: “From the time we are babies, food is presented to us as a mechanism for pleasure and emotional sedation. The first drug pushers that we meet are most often our parents.” -Dr Brian Clement.
XXX
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Balmoral….Is That It??

The morning started with the purchase of the local tipple…Deeside Water. It’s supposed to have healing properties so I got a couple of bottles from the service station. I mean, you can’t have too much of a good thing. I’ve had so much “healing water” on this trip, I must be super human by now! It was then off to Balmoral, making our way through the blizzard of snow. Ok, so it wasn’t a blizzard, but it definitely was snowing. I probably wouldn’t go racing back to Balmoral because, although it is very pretty and set in such a gorgeous landscape, £8.00 just to see the ballroom is a tad steep in my book. How many dead animal heads can you fit on a wall??? The grounds were lovely and the actual building is beautiful but I wish the Scottish would stop calling any old house a castle. It reminds me of that favourite Australian movie. Just because you consider it YOUR castle, doesn’t actually mean it is one! Balmoral, by the way, is a hunting lodge. Next it was off to Edinburgh and although we were sure we were travelling the same road as yesterday, the sat nav told us differently and we really were going south to the capital rather than back to Inverness. Edinburgh reminds me of Ireland for some reason, though I think they could do with giving the place a good scrub. The castle is something to behold….and yes, this one really is a castle! At last!! There’s been a castle on this spot since the 12th century and this castle was occupied until 1603. It later became a military base and is today still officially in the hands of the Ministry of Defence. After wandering the streets for a while, it was off to a “secret location”, where we arrived at about 11pm, luckily right at the steps of a hostel! Thank you Universe!

XXX
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Introducing….Norbert!!!!

I should have done this a week ago, but forgot. Norbert will not be happy. Norbert is my travelling companion. I’ll let him introduce himself….

Hello. I’m Norbert the sheep. I was born in China but spent most of my childhood around Stonehenge. I found Rebecca wandering around Stonehenge about 3 years ago. She took me home with promises of travel but until now I’ve been just hanging out on the bedroom windowsill. Bit boring, really. Anyway, finally I get to travel on the way to my new home in Australia. I’ve heard a lot about it and it sounds nice. Hope it isn’t too hot though as I have lots of wool. Rebecca said she’d set me up on Twitter or Facebook because I’m not sure how to do it. Hope it doesn’t take as long as it took to get travelling! I’ll get her to tell you when I’m up so you can look at my holiday snaps. I’m ever so photogenic so I think you’ll like them.
Baramewe,
Norbert. X
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Kilts? Why Not Long Johns?

I can’t work out why they wear kilts up here in the wilderness. Why no undies????????? I mean, you could have your clan’s tartan printed on thermal long johns. Surely! Having been to a school where the uniform was black watch tartan and tamoshanter, I was keen to find out the history. It turns out the was also known as the government tartan and patrols were sent out in the highlands to protect against unsociable behaviour so to speak, including cattle thieving…also know as the black market. Basically they were the highland police. Now, as everyone probably knows, they are an army regiment. So, I guess the question is what is a private girls school in Australia doing with it???? Oh well, it’s pretty I guess.

Today saw us head up to Loch Ness to find Nessie, listening to BBC Gaelic Radio on the way. Yes…it really does exist!! It’s interesting looking at the lochs up from Loch Linne, Loch Lochy (who came up with that original name?? Must do better!) and Loch Ness. It really is surprising how Scotland is not split in half they are all so close. Maybe it was once. Or maybe it will be in the future. Loch Ness is enormous. In layman terms, it’s 3 Big Bens deep (or 5 jumbo jets wing tip to wing tip) and is 37km long. Although Loch Lomond has a bigger surface area, Loch Ness wins the biggest loch title because of its depth. No wonder the Loch Ness monster is so illusive. Why would you hang out on the surface where all the humans are when you can be 3 Big Bens down? It is thought that “Nessie” might actually exist and that “she” is/was a plesiosaur. That type of dinosaur has actually been found in the modern day in other large lakes, so it’s not out of the question (and if you don’t believe me, it’s just another reason to read “Origins” by Phillip Day. The guy is BRILLIANT!) It’s an erie old loch anyway, but we thought it a shame that there didn’t seem to be any walking tracks right on the bank. Maybe we just didn’t look hard enough. Or, maybe it’s just too dangerous with big monsters about and all!!!
We next had a quick drive through Inverness, the capital of The Highlands before heading off to find Balmoral Castle. Driving through Cairngorms National Park is as desolate a countryside as you’ll find anywhere! Heath and snow and bare rock. It’s really quite spectacular. The old little croft will pop up here and there with it’s little tribe of sheep close by. It’s lambing season at the moment. How can anyone eat those dear little things? All you carnivores need to take a good hard look at yourselves!!
(BTW: It’s 11pm as I write this and someone outside is playing the bagpipes. I thought they were just for the whole tourist thing, but the locals love them!)
There are so many castles up here if you look on a map, and I’m not sure why you’d want to build your castle up here in the wilderness. Any ideas?? That (along with the lamb murdering question can be the questions of the day. There…you have a choice of two!) You have to be careful though, because as we discovered, not all “castles” are ‘castles”. How a little white two storey house can get away with calling itself a castle, I have no idea. (Yes, Corgarff Castle, I’m talking about YOU!!!)
Balmoral was built in 1390 and purchased by Prince Albert a time later. I bet Victoria gave him a shoeing when she found out he’d bought some remote house. Maybe he bought it to get away from her?! Who knows. Today the Queen and hers use it as a base to go and murder little, defenceless animals. Nice one Queen. I know it’s supposed to be the Summer residence, but can you imagine the heating bill of the place. And you’ll be glad to know that you, yes YOU, as a member of The Commonwealth are paying for this little sojourn of slaughter. Was I ranting? So sorry.
Anyway, we spent the night in the cute little town of Ballater, just 15min up the road.
XXX
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Ben Nevis Conquered!!

I awoke (not that much sleeping has had) to the words in my head, “I am Spartan!!” I always find that a good battle cry when things get a bit tough….namely the cold in this situation. However, it turned out to be the right mindset with which to start the day as the UK’s highest peak had to be conquered! Some people plan and train for this sort of thing, but sometimes I think that ignorance is bliss. And I think in this case it was! Mind over matter. If you want something badly enough, you find that the mind is all powerful and will pull you through. I could be over dramatising things a tad though. Ben Nevis is a good and challenging climb but it’s hardly Everest. And with so many charity groups racing up and down with Scafell Pike and Snowdon yet to climb in the next few hours, it makes your efforts seem a tad feeble. The going was quite rough and with a full cover of snow on top and reaching the destination in trainers and in 2.5hrs (most people take about 3-4), it was worth the memorable photo moment that was had. And even though it wasn’t Everest, it bet the views from the summit were no less impressive. Glorious, rarefied place on the planet!

The round trip took us about 5hrs and we decided that we deserved a B&B tonight. Nice. Dinner was courtesy of Morrisons supermarket (I hadn’t been to one of those either! Experience after experience!!)
XXX
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They Speak Funny Up Here

They really do! Sometimes I think I’m in a non-English speaking country! The kiddies sound cute, though.

While the rest of Britain was still counting and recounting votes (seriously guys…you need to sort out your election process!!), we were busy trundling up to Loch Lomond, dipping our toes into Glasgow on the way, but resisting the “temptation” to dive right in. It’s interesting driving around up here in Scotland, because it really is desolate but their seems to be some very nice houses and very nice cars. Not sure if most of the coin comes from textile, whisky, oil or finance. Someone might be able to answer that! That can be the question of the day.
Loch Lomond is very pretty and the colours lovely but even so, looking at the postcards, I can’t help but think that perhaps photoshop was invented in Scotland. To be fair though the contrast of bare rock against wild heather against different shades of conifers, makes for magical viewing. The area in these parts is known as The Trossachs National Park and it once straddled the kingdoms of three Celtic peoples….Scots, Picts and Britons. It is thought the name “Lomond” came from a Gaelic word meaning “beacon”. Perhaps warning beacons were lit from the very high point of Ben Lomond. Nevertheless, it was the place the infamous drover and outlaw Rob Roy MacGregor (made famous by another “local” Sir Walter Scott) called home. We walked some of the mountain but as it was getting late, we made it just to Sithean (or Fairy Hill). The Loch is 39km long and separates the lowlands from the highlands. It was on it’s banks at Cashel that we made camp (and I christened my teeny 2 second tent..it is BRILLIANT. Just needs heating!!)
Tip/lesson of the day: If possible, only camp out if the temp is above zero.
XXX
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Failte! or Someone Forgot To Tell Scotland That Winter Is Over

I couldn’t decide on the title for this one, so I gave you a choice of two. I think I prefer the second one! There’s a wee prize for those who can tell me what “Failte” means.

Scotland is cold. It’s lucky that it’s so picturesque or else it would have lost a great many brownie points. Our first stop was Gretna Green. This small, wee town is famous for it’s runaway weddings. I was hoping I’d run into Brad before visiting this place, not after. This place is like the Vegas of Scotland, but to be fair, it’s been around a lot longer. One out of every six Scottish wedding take place here. Basically, from about 1753, if you were under 21 and lived in England you had to get your folks consent to marry the bloke/chick you liked. We all know how likely that would be…your parents liking your choice at that age! Solution? Go to Gretna Green. Problem solved. It was the first village in Scotland so out of the English jurisdiction. All those crazy elopers still love to come up here to be married by the local blacksmith at the anvil. Next we drove through Dumfries and picked up supplies at the local Aldi (I’d actually never been in one of those before! One experience after another!), and then onto the Royal Burgh of Lochmaben for the night. It was rather chilly camping so not much sleep was had. We met an interesting bloke from Kent who was on a treasure hunt all around the UK, just for something to do. The only stipulation was that you had to have a Triumph motorbike. Now, I’m not really into bikes, but it was gorgeous! He collects bikes, boats and planes as a hobby so obviously not short of a quid. Lochmaben is another wee little town (do you like how I’m getting into the lingo??) about 7 miles from Lockerbie. It’s famous for being the birthplace of that very well known footballer Angus Douglas. No….I hadn’t heard of him either!! For such a little place, it has an impressive history. The Romans were here for a while (weren’t they just everywhere!) but after they left and a few others had a turn, it was Gregory King of Scots who decisively beat the native Britons here in 890. The next ruler of note, and one that I’m sure you’ve heard of was Robert The Bruce. He became lord of the area in the 1100s after doing a lot of shmoozing in court and becoming besties with the heir to the throne. Somethings never change…it’s not what you know, but who you know, huh!?!?
Lesson/tip of the day: “Don’t judge the day by the weather” -An Hawaiian saying
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Did Jesus Drink Here?

Sorry I’m a bit behind but it seems electricity sockets and wifi are in short supply up here in Scotland!

Anyway….the journey continues……..
Wednesday saw me meet up with Serena in Glastonbury for the start of our road trip. Thelma and Louise, eat your heart out! If only we could now just find Brad Pitt. Serena’s married, so I guess that leaves him all for me! :-) I love Glastonbury. Maybe it’s because I resonate with the weirdos that inhabit the place. But then, even I’m not that weird. I love the energy and I love the shops. Me and anything “new age”. What can I say? (and they have a brilliant health food shop….lots of raw goodies. Sorry all you normaltons, I just had to throw that in!). We went to The Chalice Well and drank the supposed healing waters (a bit like Bath). Legend says that Jesus drank here and planted the nearby thorn bush. Joseph of Arimathea also hung out here, and you can bet your bottom dollar that King Arthur had a swig or two from the well also. Basically, it was the place to be. We drank a couple of bottles of the water which is supposed to link one to the devine feminine…if you’re a Pagan (The nearby Thor being the male aspect), so we were complete goddesses by the time we left! We then marched up the hill to The Thor to balance ourselves out. It’s always sooooo windy up there, but the views are wonderful. Love watching everyone partake in their rituals too. Good people-watching.
Next it was onto Serena’s in Wiltshire, change cars around a bit then off to that bit of the UK that sticks out up the top.
XXX
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