By comparison to the last few days, today was gentle, short and sweet. The views were never going to be as brilliant as the last few in The Lakes, but there were lots of sheep. And lots of cows. Sheep I can handle. Cows. Well after the run in with THAT heard in Cornwall, I have been left with a mild phobia.Ok…maybe not so mild. Therapy is imminent.
Today’s walk was “only” 12 miles and would only take us 6hrs, so we had the luxury of taking it easy and enjoy the surrounds. The first part of the trail took us to Shap. On the way we passed the ruins of Shap Abbey. The Abbey, erected in 1199, was the last built in England. It was also the last to be dissolved by Henry VIII in 1540. Shap is often the overnight stop of those who push themselves through for an uber long day from Glenridding the day before. With a supermarket and tea shop, it’s positively pumping. We stopped for a tea. Very civilised and in a way made you feel like you were cheating a tad. Next it was time to cross the M6 motorway, another piece of engineering that makes you feel like you’re not on the coast to coast, strolling through the English countryside. The rest of the day was, to be honest a little mundane compared to what we’d been used to. Lots of moors and lots of sheep, with the odd bolder left over from the times when glaciers ran through the area. We were reminded for the last time of our previous few days with Kidsty Pike in the distance and Howgill Fells flanking our passage to Orton, our overnight stop.
Orton is a delightful little village and with its own little chocolate factory, what’s not to like?! It seems to be the sort of village where Londoners come to make their sea change after making their fortune in the big smoke. There’s a bit of money about considering the size and location of the village and talking to the locals, the theme seems to be a common one. It’s definitely a place to come back to.
The following day saw us head off to Kirby Stephen and hence end part one of the walk. Even though the end is in Kirby Stephen , you can’t officially call it half way. That honour belongs to Keld, a few days down the track. Mum and I were the “official guides” on today’s leg, our leader assigning us the title to give us some practice before letting us loose on our own in Part Two. I think we did ok, although we did get in trouble for going too fast at times. But when you have the end in sight, it’s hard not to leg it a little. We passed old railway routes, pretty streams, disused lime kilms and also Severals Village. This is an archaeological site said to be the most important prehistoric site in Britain. It’s completely unexcavated though so unfortunately there’s not much to look at.
All that was left to do now was make it past a few more cows and a barn yard full of sheep before treading the pavements of Kirby Stephen. Seven days of walking and 85 miles later, it was time for a couple of days of r & r.
XXX
