A lazy morning was had before heading out on the town. Amman is like a big, sprawling rabbit warren, undulating over its seven hills. The best way around is by taxi and most trips will cost close to 1JD, 3JD if you have to go to the other side of town. Every cab driver will also give you his card. He will take you anywhere in Jordan, even to Aqaba! And, of course it goes without saying that he alone will give you the very best rate. My backpack is jammed full of business cards now. I’ve never seen so many. The first cab driver took me to the 3rd Circle (by the way, they don’t seem to know their city very well. Makes you really appreciate those London black cab drivers). My first random coincidence happened when, talking about Wadi Rum and having him tell me he’d been there a month ago to see his friend, he pulled out his phone to show me his video footage. His friend was none other than Suliman, the young bloke who had looked after us. Small world. Anyway, I was off to find the tourist information centre (one of which doesn’t seem to exist) to get some ideas to fill the next few days. I had to settle for the Ministry of Tourism and Antiquities, but 1st Lt Talal was most helpful. Next I walked towards 1st Circle and down Rainbow St (cool name, huh? There’s also a Mango St) to the Jordan River Foundation (a shop selling goods produced by disadvantaged women in the Jordan River area) and then to Wild Jordan Cafe (where they promote the country’s nature reserves and ecotourism). They’re trying but there’s so much more work to do, not so much with the tourists but the local people. They have a vegan cafe here, but it’s really expensive for what it is. Next it was down the steps into the old part of the city where all the souks are. It’s crazy down here. Busy and atmospheric, but the pollution is choking and the novelty of “Welcome to Jordan!” has kind of worn off by now. Next it was time to find a new hotel (cheaper was the word of the day!). I did drop by Hotel Le Royal for a toilet break, but the 5 star hotel that’s full of white robed sheikhs lounging around pretending that they own the world (actually…..they probably do!!) watching sharks swimming around in a tank, was a tad out of my range. I settled on Toledo Hotel and then went to find the Royal Jordanian Airline office just to see about changing my plane ticket. What should have been a five minute walk took an hour and five minutes, doing a 1hr circle and ending back at my hotel first. People here are really hopeless at reading maps (looks like I have to include myself in that group too!) and by the end of my “circle” I was completely over taxi drivers asking me if I wanted a, “taxi, Damascus, Syria?” Do I look like I want to go to Damascus? Is it written on my forehead or something? I was asked sooooo many times!

By now my eyes were burning from the pollution so I took myself over to the big Mecca Mall to take a look. The cab driver said it was not just big but, “Very big AND very huge”. He was pretty right too. I don’t think Paris, London or New York need worry about competition in the fashion stakes though. Second coincidence happened as I was frustratingly trying to get my lettuce put in a separate container to my tabouli. The same guy who helped me with my tabouli in Aqaba two days ago was there with his little boy! Too weird! Saif is a Londoner with an Iraqi background whose wife is Jordanian. They’re here visiting the inlaws. They’re also on my flight on Sunday! We sat and had our meal together and discussed the London financial industry, where Saif also works. I had to try a smoothie from the same shop as it is supposedly the best in town. It was pretty good but I think I’m completely sugared out with all the fruit I’ve been eating. I’m even getting hives! The fresh sugar cane juice probably didn’t help today, but I’ve heard a bit about it and the opportunity was there. It’s quite nice.

Next it was back to the hotel via the old hotel to collect my suitcase. Very tired. I have another weird shop name for you today too: Pitti Bimbo. Hmmmm.

Question of the day: Why do they have a call to prayer at 03:00 in the morning? Do they seriously think anyone is going to turn up?? I think God wants us to sleep at some stage. Really!

XXX